The Forager
chef tested hard to find and unsual products
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TOQUE |
Toque
of San Francisco
By Carol
& Joe Davis |
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on Image
For Caption
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It
has been a better year in general for the San Francisco
dining scene. The economy leveled off and the tourists
were back, although not at peak levels. San Francisco
was again lauded for good reasons by numerous media
sources, as one of the best dining cities in the world.
Zagat Survey 2004 is out and the top 5 Bay Area restaurants
are Boulevard, Gary Danko, French Laundry,
Aqua, and Chez
Panisse.
San
Francisco saw the Watergate Restaurant
open on Nob Hill. We attended the grand opening event
and were treated to some of their best. We loved the
Roasted Herb Pecan Crusted Rack of Lamb, Crab Cakes,
and the perfect Ginger Crème Brule. Chef Walter
Liang and general manager Rebecca
Kwan have a hit with their high quality cuisine
and reasonable prices making Watergate a prime Nob
Hill fine dining destination.
Town
Hall opened on Howard Street, South
of Market, with a team from Postrio including Chef-Proprietor's
Steven and Mitchell Rosenthal,
general manager, Doug Rosenthal and
Pastry Chef Janet Rikala Dalton.
Its pleasing atmosphere, “New American"
menu, and quality team are sure to make it very successful.
We
enjoyed being judges at the 10th Annual Shuck &
Swallow Oyster Challenge held at McCormick
& Kuleto's Seafood Restaurant in
Ghirardelli Square. Teams from local restaurants competed
to see who would be this years champion. Scott
Dammann’s team from East
Side West in the Marina with Martin
Chimas and John Marrs won
with a total of 140 oysters shucked and swallowed,
beating last year’s record of 138. All proceeds
went to the Surviving Family Fund Local 798 of the
San Francisco Fire Fighters.
We
then dined at McCormick & Kuleto's
a few weeks later. We had a great seafood dinner and
enjoyed the stylish décor and stunning Bay
views. Executive Chef Armen Jeghelian,
who has been there for 5 years, has managed to create
delicate yet bold flavors that are complex but true
to the natural flavors. We loved our Scallop appetizer,
and the Salmon stuffed with Crab was delicious.
The
multilevel seating makes it a great destination restaurant
in Ghirardelli Square. Bobiviqua Steak
House is the newest addition to “Classic
Steak Houses" in San Francisco and has already
received great reviews. We still love The
House of Prime Rib for special occasions,
as you can see by the accompanying photo of the King's
Cut Prime Rib. However, save room for Cuban styled
restaurant, Habana Bar- Restaurante,
just down the street. Sabor De Cuba
opened on Van Ness by Chef-Proprietor Joseph
Kohn and Partner Sam Duval
(Izzy's Steak House). A few restaurants
(to say the least) have tried to make it in that
location, but their theme of “Hot Hot Hot Cuban"
is a great contribution to the neighborhood. We recommend
the Pato Capri, a pan seared Duck Breast with Tamarind
Chili Glaze, Smoked Bacon and Yellow Squash...delicious!
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We
had a terrific power lunch at One Market. It always
impresses clients when there's a celebrity sighting
and who better than Joe Montana to
enliven the atmosphere. We loved Executive Chef Adrian
Hoffman's grilled Hawaiian Prawns. Jitney's
Bar & Grill opened on Broadway and
is a fine destination for live jazz and comfort food.
Chef Jamie Sinsheimer has created
some great dishes including an excellent Glazed Flat
Iron Steak with Gratin of Chard and Fingerlings, with
Crispy Root Vegetable Chips. We also loved the Blackened
Catfish Jambalaya that was made with Andouille Sausage
and Creole Sauce. |
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In
the East Bay, we enjoyed a satisfying Italian dinner
at Bar Ristorante Raphael
in Berkeley. Chef Domenico Testa
from Lazio, Southern Italy and Noah Alper, founder
of Noah's Bagels recently
opened this authentic italian kosher restaurant. The
décor has a Mediterranean touch with murals
on the walls. The meatless menu is perfect for vegetarians
and vegans as well as those who enjoy fresh seafood
dishes. As a starter, we had Funghi Trifolati, Savory
Sautéed Mushrooms in Garlic, White Wine and
Parsley. The fresh halibut was delicious but the best
entrée was the light and tasty Gnocchi Aurora,
an exotic dish of Potato Pillows in Tomato Cream Sauce
with Parmesan. Probably the best Gnocchi we've ever
tasted. Canvas Restaurant
in Montclair also makes great Gnocchi. Downtown Oakland
has a great new stylish upscale restaurant near the
convention center, Twist,
in the Washington Inn. Twist
brings a very high level of dining to ““Old
Oakland", Executive Chef George Wong really knows
his way with sauces and the dinner we had was exceptional.
We fell in love with the warm Grilled Prawns and Avocado
Salad with Cucumbers, Grapefruit and Butter Lettuce,
accompanied by a superb Grapefruit Vinaigrette! |
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The
Dungeness Crab Cake appetizer gets our highest praise
as well. The entrees were terrific, and we enjoyed
the Lobster Tail in a Raspberry-Champagne reduction
served with Red Potatoes and an Aegean and Garbanzo
Bean Salad. The Lamb Loin Chops Gremolata with Haricots
Verts, Yukon Gold Mashed Potatoes and Sweet Pepper
Ratatouille was also a dish not to be missed. White
Chocolate and Cabernet Raspberry Gelato for dessert
was the perfect finish to a great meal. The Blackhawk
Grill in Danville has a new chef, Scott Sasaki, who
brings his experience and superior skills from The
French Laundry and Lark
Creek Inn with dishes such as the Beet
Medley Salad and Peking Crisp Duck a la Orange entree.
We are sorry to say that Ginger Island
in Berkeley is now closed. We loved the Smoked Salmon
and Avocado Sandwich and the Ginger Pudding, and hope
it will make a comeback in some new creation of the
owners.
Views
and fine dining usually don't always mix but we found
a few destinations in the East Bay that buck the trend.
We enjoyed our Lobster Salad lunch at Paragon
in the Claremont Resort that has a San Francisco and
Bay view. Executive Chef Andrea Froncillo
of The Dead Fish is known
how to please with a fabulous Killer Crab Sandwich
and Caesar Crab Salad. This restaurant overlooks the
Carquinez Straits and the new Zampa Bridge. Skates
on the Bay in Berkeley has a spectacular San Francisco
and Golden Gate Bridge view and has the Best Key Lime
Pie this side of Key West. |
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Up
in the North Bay, young chefs are getting their chance
to shine. Sassafras recently
opened in Santa Rosa. Chef /Proprietor Jack
Mitchell told us that after 20 years of working
for others he is so pleased to be able to make all
the decisions and do things his way. We loved the
Baked Brie, Black Mission Figs, Hobbs Prosciutto and
Aged Balsamic appetizer. Try the ““Surf
& Turf" entrée with his signature
Pan Fried Lobster. There are always special events
so check their website, www.sassafrasrestaurant.com.
Jean-Claude Balek Chef/Partner brings
his wealth of experience to The Wolf House
in Glen Ellen. Honing his craft at The
California Culinary Academy and under
the tutelage of Jeremiah Tower and
Gary Danko, his ““Sonoma
Valley Cuisine" is well worth the drive. We loved
the Sparkling Wine Battered Prawns with Upland Cress
Salad appetizer and The Pan Roasted Skate Wing served
with Crème Fraiche, Smashed Potatoes and Truffle
Braised Endive in a Brown Butter Sauce. The Classic
Lemon Tart was a terrific dessert and the perfect
ending to a great dining experience. |
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The
Girl and the Fig in Petaluma is also
drawing big crowds with their excellent cuisine and
river views. We finally made it to The
Martini House in St. Helena and had
a lovely lunch dining outdoors. We couldn't believe
it was open for 2 years already. First Crush opened
a second location in Mill Valley and the early reviews
are that it's casual upscale atmosphere and delicious
cuisine at reasonable prices is just as good as the
San Francisco location. Executive Chef Jacob
Whitener who was trained at the California
Culinary Academy and worked at Chez
Papa, is in charge of the Mill Valley
location. Try the Pan Seared Scallops. We also loved
the Tuna Tartare and the Spicy Prawns that were blackened
and served on a bed of Corn Relish with Spicy Remoulade
Drizzle. At The Buckeye
in Mill Valley, Chef Robert Price
continues to get rave reviews even from Michael
Bauer. We've loved his cuisine since we first
met at P.J. Mulherns in
San Francisco. Brix in Yountville
is a great destination for lunch or dinner. The vegetable
garden and vineyards behind the restaurant with the
mountains in the background make it an idyllic setting.
Executive Chef Ryan Jackson has changed
the menu to more of seasonal foods including grilled
meats and seafood. We loved the Pan Roasted Filet
Mignon with Potato Puree, Glazed Root Vegetables in
a Green Peppercorn Sauce. The Ross Valley
Brewing Company with new Chef James
Lloyd, previously at Paragon,
is making people think better of Brew Pub food. We
enjoyed the Crispy Polenta with Wild Mushrooms as
a starter and the spicy Southern Style Jambalaya entrée.
Our dessert was fabulous, an incredible Chocolate
Banana Cream Pie! Of course, they brew some excellent
beer, as well as root beer and orange cream soda.
San
Jose is now officially on the fine dining map. Chef
Michael Mina has put it there. He
opened the fashionable upscale Arcadia
in the San Jose Marriott bringing his Signature Lobster
Pot Pie (We loved it at Nob Hill Restaurant
in Las Vegas) and Dry Aged Roasted Prime Rib entrees
along with his Modern American style. Santana Row
was not far behind realizing that the South Bay was
starved for fine dining with new additions like Yankee
Pier, The Left Bank and Blowfish
Sushi.
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We
took a weekend trip to Tahoe City on Lake Tahoe's
North Shore and dined at Wolfdale's
overlooking the beautiful blue lake. As a pioneer
in Asian California Cuisine for over 25 years, Executive
Chef - Proprietor Doug Dale, has
blended the flavors of the West and Far East to create
““Cuisine Unique." We can't praise
this superb dinner enough! We loved the Tuna Sashimi
with Ginger, Arame, and Wasabi appetizer, and the
Seared Alaskan Halibut with Thai Basil Pesto and Green
Thai Curry over Jasmine Rice, prepared with a crispy
skin and poached to perfection.For dessert we had
the delicious Peach Kuchen with Chantilly Cream. The
food had the effect of comfort food, as each dish
tantalized our appetite and made room for more wonderful
flavors.
Until
we eat again...
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Other
Great Toques by the Writers:
Years
End
Where
to Dine in this Great City
More
Where to Dine in San Francisco
Dining
Dectives
It
has been a “better” year...for the San
Francisco Dining Scene.
Le
Colonial is certainly the place to "see and be
seen.
San
Francisco Grand Opening Gala The Onmi Hotel
The
Dynamic San Francisco Bay Area Restaurant Scene
Until
we eat again…
Joe@DiningDetectives.com
Carol@DiningDetectives.com
See
our reviews on the web….
www.DiningDetectives.com
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